The Complete DIY Arduino

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Featured on Instructables.com http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Arduino-or-The-DIY-Duino/
DIY Arduino - removeTable of Contents:

• Introduction

• Complete Materials List

• Transferring the circuit pattern

• Etching the printed circuit board

• Assembly of components

• Some power source options

• Programming the board

• Resources

• Visitors' comments (86)

• Visitors' projects

• Click here to E-mail Corey Kingsbury


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UPDATE 05/15/2013
Added SVG file of DIY-Duino circuit pattern for printing. This file is courtesy of Les Cooper, and was created using Inkscape, located here in the materials list.

UPDATE 04/09/2013
Added PDF file of DIY-Duino circuit pattern for printing, located here in the materials list.

UPDATE 04/01/2013
Added instructions for printing directly from PCB123 file.

UPDATE 01/09/2013
Edited to fix use of 22pF ceramic capacitors.

UPDATE 09/05/2012
Some visitors have asked for the PCB123 file so that they may modify it.

This file is now located in the materials list, here.

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Introduction
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To quote the Arduino website:

"Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments."

I got one a while ago and life has never been the same. Here is the official website for Arduino: http://www.arduino.cc/

There are a bunch of tutorials that show you how to build your own Arduino on a breadboard, called Hack-duinos or something similar.

While these are handy, I prefer to use more solid electronic devices. So I build them with a home-made PCB and solder all the components on there myself.

Some may say, "This task seems time consuming and a tad expensive... Why not just kerplunk the 30-some-odd bucks for an REAL Arduino?"

Well, some of us enjoy the craziness of making something completely from scratch -- and in doing so, learning more about the device you are using.

This tutorial will take you through all the steps of making your own printed circuit board(PCB), building an Arduino and loading your own programs onto the board you have built.

Just as there are several ways to build your own Arduino, there are likely just as many, if not more, ways to create your own printed circuit board or PCB. This tutorial opens with an in-depth lesson on how to make your own.

I've tried several methods of making PCBs, and what follows is a procedure that has worked the best for me.

A little background first... People who are new to making their own PCBs often call this method "The Toner-Transfer Method".

When searching for how to make your own PCBs on the Net, this is the phrase that will often come up.

However, those who have been making these for a while will correctly call it the "Gootee Method" -- and the PCBs themselves are called "Gootee Boards".

The reason is this -- the most in-depth documentation on how to etch your own PCB (at least that I know of) has been compiled and tested by Thomas Gootee.

See his website: http://fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm

The PCB you will be making in this tutorial is founded in Gootee's teachings, with a few differences/deviations.

Arduino UNO
Arduino UNO

DIY Arduino
A DIY-Duino — you will learn to make

DIY Arduino
Here is a little wheeled project that I made, using a DIY-Duino, that can be controlled with my television remote.




Complete Materials List
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TOOLS & SOLDERING MATERIALS
Dremel or Hacksaw
I suggest buying a Dremel or other rotary tool for this instructable, you will probably need a Dremel to drill the holes.

1/32" Drill bit
I don't know of one of these for a normal drill, neither did the lady at Lowes -- again... Dremel

Metal-cutting disc for Dremel
To cut out the copperboard

Solder
Flux
Desoldering braid -- for errors!
Soldering Iron
Soldering Gripper

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

PCB MATERIALS
Copper Board: 12" x 12"
You can buy a smaller board, if you want.
I buy the 12x12 because I use it for a lot of projects.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=055-140

DIY-Duino Pattern - JPG File
Click here to download the Pattern file
You must use this file to ensure the proper resolution and size of the image.

DIY-Duino - PCB123 File
Click here to download the PCB123 file

DIY-Duino pattern - PDF File
Click here to download the pattern as PDF

DIY-Duino pattern - SVG File
Click here to download the pattern as SVG
Courtesy of Les Cooper, created in Inkscape
Download Inkscape here

Photo Paper
High-quality photo paper with a glossy finish is the best to use.

Laser Printer
Or copies from a place like Kinkos or Staples.

Fine grain sandpaper
To rough up the board and make it able to absorb the pattern better.

Common, houshold tape
For securing the pattern to the copper board

Piece of scrap cardboard
This will be your makeshift ironing board.

Paper towels
To put over your board before ironing.

Clothes Iron
Use one you don't mind being ruined.
Chances are, it will get funky.

Plastic container
To bathe your board in warm water after ironing.

Tweezers
Not necessary, but can be helpfull for peeling off transfer remnants.

ETCHING MATERIALS
Jug of Muriatic Acid
You can get this at the hardware store.

Container of Laquor Remover
Removes the toner once the pattern is etched.
Also useful if you make mistakes on transfering your pattern.
You can remove the toner and try again.
You can get this at the hardware store

Container of Hydrogen Peroxide
Any Grocery Store

Standard kitchen paper towels
Use for the ironing, agitating the acid solution, and removing the toner with the lacquer remover

(2) Plastic containers
(1 for the acid mixture, one to rinse, one to bathe the PCB in hot water)

Acid disposal container
Size this, depending on how much you're using.

Pair of plastic dishwashing gloves
You can often find a better, more durable pair of gloves at the hardware store -- right near the muriatic acid oddly enough.

Other Protection
Breathing and eye protection.

Package of photo paper
I if you have access to a laser printer or laser copier. Otherwise, skip this.

1/4 Cup Measuring Cup
Use one that you don't mind being destroyed. Once you use this to measure out the Muriatic Acid, It should only be used for this purpose. NEVER use it to measure food again.


~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


PROGRAMMING MATERIALS
FT232RL USB to Serial
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/718
$14.95

A breadboard
4 short wires
4 longer wires
An LED-- to test if your upload was a success

COMPONENTS
(3) Little bits of wire

DIP Sockets Solder Tail - 28-Pin 0.3"
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/7942
$1.50

ATmega328 with Arduino Bootloader
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9217
$5.50

Basic LED - Green (or whatever color tussles your vessel)
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9650
$0.35

Resistor 330 Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH
-- 220 Ohm will work fine too if you have one
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8377
$0.25

Resistor 10k Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8374
$0.25

Mini Push Button Switch
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/97
$0.35

(2) Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/523
$0.45x2=$0.90

Voltage Regulator - 5V
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/107
$1.25

Crystal 16MHz
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/536
$0.95

(2) Capacitor Ceramic 22pF
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8571
$0.25x2=$0.50

(3) Female Headers
You'll need to cut them, and it's a little trickey...
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/115

(4) Standoffs
From Radio Shack or
From Sparkfun

 


 



Transferring the Pattern
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Copper Board: 12" x 12"
You can buy a smaller board, if you want. I buy the 12x12 because I use it for a lot of projects.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=055-140

Photo Paper
High-quality photo paper with a glossy finish is the best to use.

Clothes Iron
Use one you don't mind being ruined.
Chances are, it will get funky.

Piece of scrap cardboard
This will be your makeshift ironing board.

Arduino Pattern sheet
Click here to download the Pattern file
Or right click (Command click for Mac) and save target as. You must use this file to ensure the proper resolution and size of the image. You don't want to print and etch your board and have it be the wrong size.

Paper towels
To put over your board before ironing.

Plastic container
To bathe your board in warm water after ironing.

Common, household tape
For securing the pattern to the copper board

Tweezers
Not necessary, but can be helpful for peeling off transfer remnants.

Fine grain sandpaper
To rough up the board and make it able to absorb the pattern better.

DIY Arduino
12"x12" Copper Board still in the wrapping

 

Cut out the board

Protect your eyes.

Use your Dremel or a hacksaw and cut out the shape for your board.

Give yourself some space around the edges. I usually give myself about a 1/4 inch extra margin — mostly, because I often add in risers or spacers when I'm done at each of the corners.

Spacers are good to use, because they keep your soldered bits off of the table or ground or any other surface. They protect your board from getting fried if it happens to come to rest upon a metal surface.

DIY Arduino Sand the board
Sand the top of the copper with a fine sand paper. This gives it some more surface area for the toner to stick to.

Sand the edges too, because sometimes they can be sharp, and you don't want to cut yourself.

It's far easier to assemble a board when you don't have bandages on your fingers.

 

If you have access to a laser printer or a laser copier, fantastic. If not, no problem, you'll let Staples or Kinkos or another copy place do that for you.

If you HAVE access to a laser printer:
Put your photo paper in the printer and be sure that the glossy side is oriented correctly.

You need the image to be printed on the glossy side. If possible, set the printer to print out with the maximum quality/toner thickness available.

Print the Pattern file. Try not to touch the image area or get anything else on it. Any oils, abrasions or anything else will hamper the transfer.

If you DO NOT HAVE access to a laser printer:
Print the Pattern file. Try to get the best, darkest quality printout possible.

Bring the printout to your local copy store and have them make laser copies of it on high-quality photo paper.


Explain to them what you are attempting to do with these copies. Occasionally, there will be someone working there that knows or has heard of what you're doing.

Try not to touch the image area or get anything else on it. Any oils, abrasions or anything else will hamper the transfer.

Prepare the pattern
Cut one of the patterns out. On 3 sides, trim close along the edge of the pattern. On one side, leave a little tab for you to hold on to. Again, you don't want anything to touch the image.
DIY Arduino - pattern
Here is a raw pattern, not trimmed yet.

DIY Arduino - pattern trimmed
Here is a trimmed pattern with a little tab to hold it by.

PRINTING FROM PCB123
If you are printing directly from the PCB123 file, follow these steps.

From the File menu list, select "Print Artwork" then configure the print window like the image shown.

Print from PCB123

 

Transfer preparation/things to get ready.

Fire up your clothes iron, put it on the hottest setting -- High/Linen. With no steam. We want this sucka HOT!

It's good to start your iron heating up while you get the other stuff ready.

Be careful not to burn yourself or anything else! Make sure you turn the iron off when you're done!
DIY Arduino - container Get a plastic container, large enough so the PCB can lay flat. I use a sandwich container, and fill it with hot water.

This will bathe your PCB after you transfer the pattern.
DIY Arduino - cardboard Cut out a piece of scrap cardboard for your ironing board.

I use pieces of cardboard box, usually just cutting off one of the flaps.
DIY Arduino - place copperboard on the cardboard Place your cut and sanded piece of copper board in the middle of the cardboard with the copper side facing up.
DIY Arduino - pattern and copperboard Lay your pattern face down on the copper board.

Take a couple pieces of tape and secure the pattern to the copper board.
Place a paper towel over the top of the copper board.

This should protect your iron from the gunk that is created when you heat up the paper -- but I'm not making any promises.

If you don't want to ruin your iron, don't use a good one. You can usually get one cheap at a yard sale or a new one for less than $25.
DIY Arduino - press down with iron Transferring the Image

When the iron is heated up, press down FIRMLY on the top of the papertowel, pattern and copper board.

Hold it in place for one minute.

After a minute, remove the iron.

You should be able to make out the edges of the board through the paper towel.
DIY Arduino - go over with the tip of iron Use the tip of the iron to go over the board bit-by-bit.

Take another minute to be sure you apply heat to each part of the board...

Go up and down, side to side and left to right.
Pay special attention to the edges.

In my experience, the edges are where the board/image gets the least amount of heat.

Finally, for one more minute, hold the iron on the board again to finish up.
Caution, the board will be very hot!

Peel the paper towel off of the top.

If some paper towel sticks to the top, it's ok.

This will loosen and be easy to remove in the water bath.
DIY Arduino - bathe the chip in warm water Time for a bath
Place the board face up in the plastic container of warm water and let it bathe for 10 minutes.
DIY Arduino - peel back the pattern After 10 minutes, peel the pattern paper off.

In my opinion, the ironing is the trickiest part of the entire procedure... If you've done a good job at ironing, the entire paper will peel off and you will be looking at a shiny copper board with the black laser toner transferred onto it.

However, this will not likely happen. Do not be discouraged! What will likely happen is one of two things:

1. You peel the paper back and some or all of the paper comes off, but the pattern was not totally transferred either.

2. You peel the paper back and only some of it comes off, leaving behind some paper and a thin plastic.
DIY Arduino - bummer

DIY Arduino - a total mess
In case 1:
You haven't completely ironed the toner and it hasn't transferred to the board.

You are sadly out of luck — only for the moment though. You will need to start again.

Hey, at least you have the copper cut out, right? And practice makes perfect... the best way to be an expert at something is to be a complete failure at it first.

The board on the left isn't totally messed up. In fact, I fixed it with a Sharpie... see below on how this works.

But you can see where the toner didn't completely transfer over to the board. On the left corner, the toner is faded — that's because it's still stuck to the paper.

Now, the board below that one is a total mess. It's one of the first boards I ever tried to make. I'm not sure why I still have it, maybe just to show in this tutorial. You can see that it's kind of corroded from sitting around. The main thing to look at is that the toner didn't transfer too well.

If this happens to your board, put it back into the water and let it soak overnight. You'll easily be able to peel everything off in the morning.

After all the paper is removed, take some lacquer remover, dampen a paper towel with it, and wipe away all the toner.

Re-sand the coppe rboard, so that it looks clean and new and start again. Don't sweat it, you'll get it, trust me!


DIY Arduino - tweezers
In case 2:
You're left with some paper still stuck to the board. You may notice that there is a thin plastic layer that is sticking to the copper. This is what the pattern image was originally transferred on to.

You may also notice that there is some "plain" paper that comes off easily. Take your thumbs and rub off what you can of the "plain" paper.

Soak the board in the warm water bath for another couple minutes. Return and try to rub off more of the "plain" paper.

Eventually you'll be able to get everything off.

The photo on the left has only a little of the plastic stuck to it. You can use your fingernails to peel off the plastic, because the transferred toner resists being chipped by your nails fairly well.
I also find that using some tweezers to peel off the thin plastic works too. BE CAREFULL though with the tweezers, because it IS possible to chip the pattern with them.

Also, you need to get ALL OF THE PAPER AND PLASTIC off of the board for the etching to work thoroughly. Often, I just remove what I can of the "plain" paper and then set the board in the bath for a couple hours.

When you return, you'll find that the plastic does not stick so much to the board and you can peel it off easily. Again, you can use tweezers, but use them carefully.
DIY Arduino - Sharpie OK, so you got all of the paper and plastic removed.

Double check your board. Make sure all lines connect properly.

Go over any nicks with a Sharpie permanent marker. I have one of the thin-line Sharpies for fixing these little nicks. Sharpie ink resists the acid.
DIY Arduino - ready board If everything looks good, you are now ready to etch your board.

 

Etching the Board
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Jug of Muriatic Acid
You can get this at the hardware store.

Container of Laquer Remover
This will remove the pattern when you are done etching the board. It is also useful if you make mistakes on transferring your pattern. You can remove the toner and try again. You can get this at the hardware store.

Container of Hydrogen Peroxide
Any Grocery Store

(3) Standard kitchen paper towels
Use for the ironing, agitating the acid solution, and removing the toner with the lacquer remover

(2) Plastic containers
(1 for the acid mixture, one to rinse, one to bathe the PCB in hot water)

Acid disposal container
Size this, depending on how much you're using. See below on disposal.

Pair of plastic dishwashing gloves
You can often find a better, more durable pair of gloves at the hardware store -- right near the muriatic acid oddly enough.

Protection
Plastic gloves, breathing and eye protection.

(1) 1/4 Cup Measuring Cup
Use one that you don't mind being destroyed. Once you use this to measure out the Muriatic Acid, It should only be used for this purpose. NEVER use it to measure food again.
DIY Arduino - chemicals
From Left: Lacquer Remover, Muriatic Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide
DIY Arduino - gloves
Plastic Protective Gloves
DIY Arduino - measuring cup
1/4 cup Measuring Cup

First, some precautions
Muriatic Acid is very dangerous, both to breathe, and to get on any part of your body. It will also destroy most of what it comes into contact with, metal, clothing.

Most important, protect your skin and eyes. I ALWAYS wear goggles and it's not even an option to not use plastic gloves.

Put on your eye protection. Put on your protective gloves. Put on your breathing protection. Make sure you are not wearing clothes that you want to keep clean. Chances are they will be ruined. It is best to do the etching outside, in a garage or basement, or in a bathroom. Somewhere where if you spill a little acid, it won't hurt anything.

If you can't do your etching outside, do it in a well-ventilated room, and be sure to protect anything you don't want completely ruined from the acid.

Basically the only thing that won't be ruined by the acid is plastic.

The containers
You will be using 3 containers. One container will hold your etching solution, the second will hold hydrogen peroxide only, and the third will be used to discard your solutions in a safe and proper manner.

The hydrogen peroxide container will be used to rinse off your board after it is finished etching.

Now, prepare your etching solution
The mixture is 1 part Muriatic Acid to 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide.

Use the 1/4 cup measuring cup to portion out one 1/4 cup full of Muriatic Acid and two 1/4 cups full of hydrogen peroxide into one of your plastic containers.
DIY Arduino - oops
Be careful not to get the muriatic acid on anything. This photo shows what happens when it gets spilled on concrete. It bubbles, burns and smells pretty nasty -- not to mention looks pretty gross too.
DIY Arduino - board This is the copper board after you have removed all traces of the photo paper.

You should have checked it over and made sure that all of the traces are completed, and there are no chips that would make an incomplete circuit.

If there are any chips or scratches, fix them with a Sharpie as described above.

DIY Arduino - into the acid Gently place the board into the etching solution.
DIY Arduino - etching1 You will notice that the etching solution begins to change color.

This is the acid reacting to the copper and starting to dissolve it.
DIY Arduino - agitate Agitate the container gently, so that the etching solution mixes over the submerged board.
DIY Arduino - wipe Use a paper towel to wipe the board while it's submerged.

This helps along the etching process.
DIY Arduino - etching After about 4 minutes, you will notice that the copper will begin to dissolve.
Continue to wipe areas where there is still copper.
DIY Arduino - after 5 minutes After about 5 minutes, your board should be completely etched.

The etching solution will have changed to a green color after reacting with the copper.
DIY Arduino - remove Remove the board and rinse it in the second container, the one that has just hydrogen peroxide.

This will dilute the remaining acid.

Now, it's not the best thing in the world to do, but we've diluted any solution still clinging to our board and most of the copper that has dissolved into the solution is diluted as well. So... take your board and rinse it under some water.
DIY Arduino - finished etching Here is what you should have.

You will notice in this photo that there is still some copper in the top right corner.

This should be ok.

But if this happens on your board and you want to remove it, just gently sand it off. Be careful not to sand off anything you don't want to!
DIY Arduino - wipe with lacquer remover The final step is to use lacquer remover to get the toner off.

Put some lacquer remover on a paper towel and wipe off the toner.

Do your best to get all of the toner off.

Your board should look like the one below.

Rinse this puppy off once more and get ready to drill the holes for the components.

DIY Arduino - totally finished etching

 

When you are done etching and rinsing, pour both the etching solution and the hydrogen peroxide into your disposal container, toss the paper towels in there as well and seal it up.

It is good to use a larger container to discard these materials. I have cats so I use the plastic tub that their litter comes in. If you have cats too and decide to do this, rinse out the tub. The acid will react slightly to the clay remnants in the tub.

To dispose of this tub, you can bring it to your local fire station, as they are equipped to dispose of dangerous chemicals. Or you can find out when your garbage company picks up hazardous waste and have them remove it.

DO NOT POUR YOUR LEFTOVER SOLUTION DOWN ANY DRAIN OR ON THE GROUND OUTSIDE!
DIY Arduino - disposal of chemicals

 

There is not much to explain here.

Only this: Up until now, you could get by without a Dremel or other rotary tool. It may have been trickier, but do-able.

However, I must say, I can't imagine getting past this part with a normal drill.

First, I don't think they even sell 1/32" drill bits for normal drills. Second normal drills are just too cumbersome to do this delicate work. One slip and you've ruined your precious PCB.

So, do yourself a favor and score a Dremel or rotary tool. They are useful for many more things than just making PCBs!
DIY Arduino - drilling materials
From left: Your PCB, 1/32" drill bit, the smallest drill adapter for Dremel, chuck, and Dremel.
DIY Arduino - drilled Put on your eye protection and carefully drill your holes.

Be careful with both the PCB and the drill bit itself.

A 1/32" bit is really not much larger than a sewing needle and easy to break.

It's a pain to get half way through drilling and snap a bit. Then you either have to go to the hardware store and get another, or order one online. The hardware store near me doesn't even sell individual bits, they're in a package of different sizes. So it's $10 for one bit and five that I already have like three sets of.

If you order them online, you can buy them in a small canister of 4. I think I paid $5 for one canister. It's good to have extras, eventually you will break one.

Anyhow, carefully drill out the holes for your components. Start by drilling through the copper side. Then turn the PCB over to the plastic side and drill through the holes you've made -- just to be sure you have it going through clean.
DIY Arduino - drilled check Hold your PCB up to the light and check that you've drilled everything.

On this board, I've drilled places to add risers in the corners. It's a good idea to have these, so your board isn't sitting on the table and resting on its solder points.

Pat yourself on your back, you're now ready to assemble the components.

 

Putting it All Together
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DIY Arduino - atmega328
3 Little Wires, DIP Socket, ATmega 328
(3) Little bits of wire

DIP Sockets Solder Tail - 28-Pin 0.3"
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/7942
$1.50

ATmega328 with Arduino Bootloader
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9217
$5.50
DIY Arduino - resistors LED button
Green LED, 220 Ohm Resistor, 10K Ohm Resistor, Mini PushButton
Basic LED - Green
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9650
$0.35

Resistor 330 Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH
-- 220 Ohm will work fine too if you have one
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8377
$0.25

Resistor 10k Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8374
$0.25

Mini Push Button Switch
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/97
$0.35
DIY Arduino - Caps and Voltage Regulator
(2) Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V, Voltage Regulator - 5V
(2) Electrolytic Decoupling Capacitors - 10uF/25V
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/523
$0.45x2=$0.90

Voltage Regulator - 5V
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/107
$1.25
DIY Arduino - crystal
Crystal 16MHz, (2) Capacitor Ceramic 22pF
Crystal 16MHz
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/536
$0.95

(2) Capacitor Ceramic 22pF
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8571
$0.25x2=$0.50
DIY Arduino - female headers
Break Away Female Headers, Bottom row has been cut
(3) Break Away Female Headers
These are not really break away.
You'll need to cut them.
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/115
DIY Arduino - standoffs
(4) Standoffs
(4) Standoffs I got these at Radio Shack

Here's a link for some from Sparkfun
DIY Arduino - solder, flux, desolder Solder (left)

Flux (center)

De-soldering braid (right)-- for errors!
DIY Arduino - soldering iron Soldering Iron and a second set of hands helps out in a major way!

 

finished setup DIY Arduino - finished setup

I have drawn up a little diagram of where everything is supposed to go.

At the left is a simple diagram of the finished setup, complete with the pin locations. Follow the pictures below to put the board together correctly.

In this tutorial, I will hope that you are decent at soldering. It is not my goal here to teach you how to solder.

There are a bunch of tutorials an pointers out there on how to solder properly.

Here is one of my favorite pages:
http://www.ladyada.net/media/common/soldering.pdf

DIY Arduino - blank board DIY Arduino - blank board
Here is the naked board.

It should be oriented with the copper facing away.

You will be soldering the components on the plastic side only, NOT the side with the copper.

Put the leads of the components through the board and solder them to the copper.

The places where there are squares should be where the ground/negative lead of the component are soldered.
DIY Arduino - atmega328 DIY Arduino - atmega328
Start by soldering the DIP Socket for the ATmega328.
DO NOT solder in the actual chip.

It is always a good idea to use these Sockets, because you can remove your chip if you want to use it in another board or project or whatever. And de-soldering them is a royal pain.

Note the area where there is a little oval cut out.

This is to let you know how the chip should be oriented.

When you finally put your ATmega chip into the socket, you want to place it with the oval facing up.

The top left of the chip is the reset.

If you don't put the chip in right, nothing will work.
DIY Arduino - voltage regulator DIY Arduino - voltage regulator

Add the capacitors and the voltage regulator.
Important: The capacitors have a little white bar on one side. This is to let you know where to attach it to the ground.

Attach the side with the white bar to where the square pad (ground) is and the other to the power.

Do this for both of the capacitors.

The voltage regulator needs to be soldered with the back of the "chair"/ the tall metal part facing out.


You may need to file a little of the legs off of the voltage regulator, as the leads are often squarish and flat.
DIY Arduino - wires DIY Arduino - wires
Add the little jumper wires.
You have three wires. It doesn't really matter what color they are, as I'm sure you know. Just as long as you know where they are supposed to go.

For this circuit, you'll solder wires to span and attach to two grounds and one voltage.
DIY Arduino - 16mHz crystal DIY Arduino - 16mHz crystal
Add the 22pF ceramic capacitors (2 of them) and the 16mHz crystal.
It does not matter how the ceramic capacitors or the crystal are oriented.

The crystal is a little wider than we need for this board, so you should bend the leads so that it will fit in snugly at the bottom. You don't want any components dangling.
DIY Arduino - 10K Ohm Resistor DIY Arduino - 10K Ohm Resistor
Add the resistors.
The resistors are 10K Ohm and 220 Ohm.

The 10K Ohm resistor is banded brown, black, orange and gold and will provide resistance to the button.

The 220 Ohm resistor is banded red, red, brown and gold and will provide resistance to the LED.
DIY Arduino - LED and Button DIY Arduino - LED and Button
Add the LED and button.
The LED will light up and tell us that the board is getting power.

The button will allow us to reset the board.

Some buttons have 4 leads, we only need two of them, so you can snip the extras off if you have four.

Be sure to insert the long leg of the LED into the power, and the short leg into the ground (the square pad).
DIY Arduino - female headers DIY Arduino - female headers
Add the female headers.
It's not really necessary to have all these headers.

Personally, I like to have a voltage and a ground for every usable pin on the chip -- especially next to the analog pins.

But, I suppose as long as you have one extra voltage and one extra ground out, you are good.
DIY Arduino - power DIY Arduino - power

Add the power supply.
And you're done.

There are a couple different ways to connect to a power supply.

I'll write a little about that below.

 

Some Ways to Get Power
^ Back to top of page
DIY Arduino - 9v Depending on your preference, you can create a bunch of different power supplies for your board.

There are a bunch of wall plugs you can buy, but be careful of its output, because you risk toasting your board.

You want a 9V DC 100-500mA power adapter, one with a 2.1mm barrel plug and positive tip. I don't have one, because I use mostly rechargeable 9volt and AAA batteries.

Click here for more on wall plugs

With this fella, you can solder the red line right into the pad for power and the black to the square pad for ground. Then plug in a 9volt battery and you're good to go.
DIY Arduino - DC input This is a DC plug that you can solder to your board as well.

This allows you to plug and unplug your power supply.

Depending on what you're using your board for, this might be a good route for you to take.
DIY Arduino - DC input 2 This is a different version of a DC plug.
DIY Arduino - plug I like to use these, because they plug in easy to the DC line in above.

There are many tutorials on how to wire a DC power jack, if you don't know how to do it.
DIY Arduino - 4aaa This is a AAA battery box, that will plug into the power jack.

 

Make it Work
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DIY Arduino - FT232 and breadboard If you already have an Arduino, you can follow the details on how to use it as an In-System Programmer (ISP) here:
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

However, you will need to modify your board to be able to accept a line from the Arduino's Reset to your boards Reset.

Personally, I like to use the FT232RL USB to Serial. I think it's easier and it's just become habit for me.

FT232RL USB to Serial
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/718
$14.95

I can't remember if mine came with the male headers, so you might want to get some of those too.

You will need:
The board you created above
Breakout Board for FT232RL USB to Serial
A breadboard
4 short wires
4 longer wires
An LED-- to test if your upload was a success
DIY Arduino - FT232 top DIY Arduino - FT232 bottom
The far left photo is a picture of the top of the FT232 and directly left is the bottom.

You will need to solder male headers to the board.

Be sure to remove any battery or power source from your board before you connect the FT232.
DIY Arduino - FT232 Set up your FT232 on a breadboard like this.

The wire on the top left is TXD and will go to pin 0 (RX) on your board.

The wire on the bottom left is RXD and will go to 1 (TX) on your board.

The wire on the top right is ground and will be attached to a ground line on your board.

The wire on the bottom right is VCC and will be attached to a power line on your board.
DIY Arduino - connected Here is basically how the connection looks.
DIY Arduino - wired closeup Here is a close up of how the wires are plugged into your board.

The red wire is VCC -- power.

The Black wire is ground.

The yellow wire is TXD and is connected to pin 0 on your board.

The orange wire is RXD and is connected to pin 1 on your board.
DIY Arduino - open the software Open the Arduino Software.

If you do not have the Arduino software, download it here http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software and follow the instructions for setup.

Go to File >> Examples >> Basics >> and open the Blink sketch...

Or any other sketch of yours.

If you are going to use the Blink Example, plug a LED into pin 13 on your board. The long leg goes to pin13 and the short one goes to ground.
DIY Arduino - select the board You need to be sure you are set to the right chip.

Otherwise you will get an error when trying to upload your sketch.

Go to Tools >> Board >> and click on the chip you have in your board.

In this case, we have the ATmega328.
DIY Arduino - upload it Click the upload button (in yellow in the photo).

The program will tell you that its Uploading to I/) Board.

Wait for it to say: "Binary sketch size: 1018 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum)"
DIY Arduino - press reset When the software says "Binary sketch size: 1018 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum)"press the reset button on your board.

You only have a couple seconds to do this, otherwise your upload will fail and you will get an error.

When the program is sending the sketch over, the RX and TX lights on the FT232 will go all blinkey for a couple seconds.

When they stop blinking, you will get a "Done Uploading" message and the LED will begin flashing.
DIY Arduino - success Success!

You have successfully created your own PCB, assembled your own DIY-Duino, and programmed the board.

Awesome!

 

Some Usefull Resources
^ Back to top of page

The Official Arduino Page
http://www.arduino.cc/

Sparkfun
Good place to get supplies and learn
http://www.sparkfun.com/

Instructables
A great website to learn and share your ideas and inventions.
http://www.instructables.com/

Ladyada
Another great site with a wealth of information and products
http://www.ladyada.net/

PCB-123
A good program to design patterns for your own boards. Download the FREE program below:
http://www.sunstone.com/pcb-resources/downloads/ThankYou.aspx?ID=14

Reverse Engineering a Cheap Arduino Programming Cable
http://www.kwartzlab.ca/2010/04/reverse-engineering-cheap-ardu/

 

Visitor's Comments & Questions
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Leave me a comment or a question, and I'll try as best I can to help you if you have any issues.
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IRthMonKeY
Sunday, February 2, 2014
I love this! Thanks Sir Kingsbury! If anyone else finds this awesome step by step useful and you keep returning to it for references ..I just keep the site open all the time on a tab.... Then take a fraction of the time it took this guy to create and document all of this and, shoot him a donation! I am for sure. This info has been really valuable to me just starting out in ICs way more valuable than what I could give financially. What do you guys think?


Schel
Saturday, February 1, 2014
Just a tip..the Hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid are both -air dissipates . once the etching is done.. the muriatic acid and H.P can be poured into a bucket or preferably a pan. add as much water as the container can hold and leave uncovered in a safe open/ outdoor area..after a few days the remaining diluted acid and H.P will have evaporated leaving the water and copper particulates. I wait a full 2 weeks and add more water. This is now safe to dispose of as you would any waste water! Just NOT down the drain...we dont need any more copper in our water supply.


stumitch
Monday, December 2, 2013
thanks for posting this... i will be going to Rwanda to teach next July and one of the areas i want to teach will be programming... arduino is perfect for this. Your design will be great for a country with no money! thanks. I have to comment on "tussles your vessel" which is a hilarious expression. never heard it before! :-)


mur
Sunday, October 20, 2013
Good tutorial ,I used ordinary A4 paper and obtained very good result.Thank you


Vernon
Sunday, September 8, 2013
I just want to say this is the BEST tutorial I've ever seen. I'm not a newbe at electronics but I;m always trying to find better ways of doing things. One thing I do is when I etch a board I put it in a ziplock sandwitch bag. You can shake it pretty much as hard as you want, (within reason). That cut the etch time down ten fold. Disposal is as simple as turning the bag upside down, clipping the corner and pour it into the disposal container.


Deep Samuel
Sunday, August 11, 2013
I am sure you must have got many comments about this project.Whole process is described with such detail,pictures make it perfect for any beginner.Thanks for giving so much time to help other hobbist.I am pretty sure every one must have appriciated it.Thanks again


CoreyK
Monday, April 1, 2013
You have to download the file, then print it at 100% If you click on it and print it from the website, I think it will be pixelated. But I'm not sure. You can check the accuracy of the print, by taking the Atmega chip and lining it up with the pins of your printed page. If you print from the PCB 123 file to the following. Click File >> Print Artwork, Under Select Layers to print, check off Top, also select the option to Print in black and white. Then click OK.


ArduinoNut
Friday, March 29, 2013
How exactly do you go about printing the layout: full screen, shrink to fit, scaling, etc... I would just like to know how exactly you do it.


David
Tuesday, March 26, 2013
I built an arduino using your instructions. Everything went well, so thank you for your detailed article. One comment I have is that when programming the board, I have been able to avoid having to hit reset as you describe in the \"Make it Work\" section by connecting a capacitor between the reset pin of the ATMega328 and the DTR pin of the FT232RL USB to Serial board. I had to use an alligator clip attached to the leg of the 10k resistor to get access to the reset pin. I\'m not sure why it works, but I learned about this idea from sparkfun customers Kevind and digifun in the comments section of the FT232RL USB to Serial board web page at https://www.sparkfun.com/products/718.


CoreyK
Thursday, February 21, 2013
I'm not sure why it won't print. It may be that the printer is set so as to not print high resolution images. Maybe to save on toner? I can't say, sorry!


kamalg
Thursday, February 21, 2013
I'm not able to print the pattern at high rez, my printer which is a HP Laserjet M1005 MFP says "Page too complex" I'm able to print it at low rez :( please kindly help!


mincior
Friday, January 25, 2013
I like yor method to make pcb. Instead of photo paper you can try vinyl sticker to make pcb. Some tutorials and pictures are here: http://en.electroni-city.com


matrixstorm
Friday, January 18, 2013
Nice project! And quite a detailed description! I also invented a DIY AVR board some time ago. Maybe you check it out. It is called tinyUSBboard (http://matrixstorm.com/avr/tinyusbboard/). It has an onboard USB interface via special revised firmware. Best regards, matrixstorm


maaz
Wednesday, January 9, 2013
Always use 22pf capacitor with the crystal thats recommended by avr else circuit wo'nt work. Reset pin should be available for access , extra pad for reset pin using one feale header. try modifying pcd for having poweer on/off button and power led.It works.we did it ! maaz n rehma


bobbokop
Friday, October 26, 2012
Ehy! Good news! I succeded in setting up the DIY Arduino. I didn't use the resonators, I used the 22pF ceramic capacitors with the 16Mhz crystal and worked like a charm at first attempt. So I think I wasn't doing nothing wrong on my first attempts, just the parts weren't correct. Anyway, now I succeded I can start making some more interesting (and stopping buying UNOs for my projects by building low cost DIYs). For example I would like to build DIYs with nano form factor, and many others things... In the end, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR SUPPORT once again, if you like to, I will let you know about my future projects. Here is the result...


CoreyK
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
@bobbokop: Thanks for your post. And your kind words on the Instructables page. :-) I'll send you an email to the address you provided and see if we can figure this out.


bobbokop
Monday, October 1, 2012
Hi, I already explained my problem on instructables pages. Board powers on, I have 5v at VCC, AVCC and AREF but my simple blink sketch doesn't work. I plugged the Atmega onto an actual arduino and works like a charm, but not on the diy-duino. I attach some pictures of the PCB. I also made a breadboard version affected by the same problems. Thank you!


CoreyK
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
There have been a number of people asking for the PCB123 file, you can find a link to it now at the top of the page. Go to the Table of Contents. Theres a Green box with a link to the file. Cheers everyone!


Ritesh
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Excellent article. I'm interested in making my own with a few modifications, please share the design files (pcb layout files)


CoreyK
Friday, August 31, 2012
@ John N: Sent it!


John N
Thursday, August 30, 2012
Great tutorial! I would also like the PCB123 file please. I can't wait to give it a try. Thanks for sharing. John


CoreyK
Monday, August 6, 2012
@ shilpam: Sent it


shilpam
Sunday, August 5, 2012
Can you please send me the PCB123 file for this layout on my email. I want to modify the design a little bit to include a LCD display thanks in advance


CoreyK
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
What do you mean by doubling the output pins?


David
Monday, April 30, 2012
I have made the board almost identical, twice. The only difference being I doubled the output pins 2-13 and a3,4,5,6. I add power and the led lights. For the IC I have removed my ic from the arduino and burned the sketch I want to use on the ic. I then put the new burned chip in your board. But the sketch doesn't seem to run. Any ideas?


Sticks
Sunday, April 15, 2012
@Joeson: The 328 is designed to run at 16MHz. A higher (or lower) value would work too, but would burn off the 328 quite quickly. It's like overclocking a computer, you can only tweak it a few percent. Still, I think 32MHz wouldn't be a problem if you have really good cooling. If you really need better performance, look at Atmels microcontrollers: http://www.atmel.com/products/microcontrollers/avr/megaavr.aspx The ATMEGA6450P for example runs at 20MHz.


CoreyK
Saturday, April 7, 2012
@John: The name of the program I used is PCB123. Its a free program. There's a link to the site in the "Some Good Resources" area right above this comment area.


John
Saturday, April 7, 2012
Hey what software did you use to make the circuit board pattern file?


CoreyK
Tuesday, April 3, 2012
@Joeson: I'm not sure. I would use the 16mhz.


Joeson
Monday, April 2, 2012
If I change the crystal clock to a 1GHz one,will the board and chip run at 1GHz?


CoreyK
Thursday, March 8, 2012
@Gargakk: Sure, I'll send it to the email you provided on the question form. Could you please email me a pic of your project when you're done? I'm going to start posting photos that people send of their completed projects.


Gargakk
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
Hi CoreyK, really nice work!!! Can you please send me PCB123 or PDF file of the board 'cause i need to modify it adding a RTC. Thx!!!


gargakk
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
Hi CoreiK, really nice work!!! Can you please send me pattern file in PDF format and/or in PCB123 ?? i need to modify adding a relay and a TIP-120 for fan/motor PWM control. Thx!!!!


CoreyK
Monday, March 5, 2012
@Edz29, yes Vichhay reports he was able to get the board to work with this method. Though I have not tried it this way myself. The end LED is not for the RX/TX it is just a simple way to let you know that the board is receiving power.


Edz29
Friday, March 2, 2012
another question, when i supplied a 9v dc voltage does my LED (rx,tx) need to light so i can determine if my board works or in right connection


Edz29
Friday, March 2, 2012
hello sir CoreyK i have read the response of Vichhay and i have a same problem with the diy arduino. i want to verify if his method really works..


CoreyK
Monday, February 27, 2012
@Edz29 I'm glad you want to use this board for your project. It is a handy little board to use. Still, I would urge you to gain some experience with the "official" arduino before making this board. There are many things that can go wrong when constructing it, and I would hate for you to become discouraged. I commonly prototype everything I make with the arduino first. Then, when I know the prototype is working, I build with the DIY board. There are other benefits to having an official arduino board (for example, ethernet and motor shields, which do not work on my DIY board). Now, I'm not trying to discourage you from building this project, by any means! It is very rewarding to get this board working. :-) However, if you are a first timer i highly recommend using the official arduino to get the hang of how it all works, then switching to the DIY board. That is only my opinion of course! :-) Here is a link to the pin configuration of the atmega chip: http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/arduino-atmega328-pinout I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions, and I'll do my best to answer them for you.


Edz29
Monday, February 27, 2012
sir i made my decision and i want to use your board for my project instead of buying an arduino board since your tuutorial is great. however i find some difficulties in recognizing the analog pins, digital, etc. Since it is my first time to deal with this project. Could you send me the pin configurations or even the schematic diagram of your arduino board. it will be a great help for a first timer like me=) thanks in advance


CoreyK
Monday, January 23, 2012
@Vichhay - My pleasure, I'm glad you were able to get it working. I'll check out your photos!


Vichhay
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Thank you. Every thing is from your help, especially your supporting. I'll post the pictures on facebook.


CoreyK
Sunday, January 22, 2012
I'm glad you got it to work. I'm not sure why it wasn't working, but it's good that its going now. Sure, I'd love to see some pictures. Again, I'm glad it's working for you. CHEERS! :-)


Vichhay
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Hi! I got it work now. I'm using two 22uf ceramic cappacitors instead of 0.1uF that I order from Sparkfun (in the instruction above). I really don't understand, why i can't do it? But it's work for other reasons. Do you want me to show you some photos? (Facebook)


CoreyK
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Hmmm, not sure how it manages to work without the caps! It may be possible that some solder crossed on those when they were connected? and made them not work? I wouldn't try doing too much without them, because you could fry your chip. I'll send you an email from my account and can you send me a picture of your set up? both front and back?


Vichhay
Monday, January 9, 2012
Hi, CoreyK I just found the clue that make Arduino clone work now. But I'm not really sure safe or not, because I took out some components from the instruction above (I took out two ceramic capacitors next to Crystal 16MHz and leave the Crystal the same way). I have to hit the reset button, and my board work with Arduino Uno. I'm really happy now, but I need to make sure it is safe to do so. Thank you.


CoreyK
Saturday, January 7, 2012
@Vichhay: I'm pretty sure this error means your computer is not connecting to the board you built. and is not sending over the program. Do you own an actual Arduino board? Right now, the only extra advice I can give is to load a sketch on to a REAL Arduino, then pop out the chip and plug the chip into your DIY one. If the DIY successfully runs your sketch, you've built it correctly. However if it does not, something didn't get assembled correctly. Also when you solder, you have to be sure they are clean -- dont cross anywhere. You may also what to check out the Arduino website and look through some of the forums there. Signup and post some questions. The people there are WAY more knowledgable than I am! :-) and they are really friendly too. I go on and ask questions whenever I'm stuck and can usually find the answer. It's all trial and error my friend! :-) Keep at it, when you get it working, you'll be psyched! Post back and let me know how its going. We'll get this working for you!


Vichhay
Saturday, January 7, 2012
Hi,I'm again. I already follow your instruction, but still not work. One thing that i don't follow the tuitorial above is the board, I make my own board but i follow the patern above and even i try with breadboard. I got same thing error. Please, give me some more advices, thank you very much. It is the first time for me.


CoreyK
Monday, January 2, 2012
@Vichhay: there are a couple reasons why you may get this message. Mostly, you getr this when your computer isn't communicating with the board. Usually this error is from selecting the worng kind of board. In the arduino software, Click on "Tools" the "Board" and make sure you have the right board selected. ususllay either the Duemilla (328) or Uno and try again. Also see if you have the correct COM port click "Tools" "Serial Port" and select the right Com port. Sometimes, when you upload the sketch, you might need to hit the reset button on the DIY-duino right as the software says "Uploading Sketch". Try these ane please re-post your results. Best of luck to you!!!


Vichhay
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Hi, I just bought the parts to make arduino clone from Sparkfun as I follow the tuitorial above. I already instal them together, but I can't upload the sketh at all. The problem is(Binary sketch size: 1018 bytes (of a 30720 byte maximum) avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51. Please help me, thank you.


Clotilde Serr
Friday, November 25, 2011
Amazing website ! Thanks for maintaining it. Keep going that way.


javierg
Sunday, November 20, 2011
i don't have an Arduino. i'm using uartsb v2.2 to connect the board, it have 5 connectors (vcc, txd, rxd, gnd, DTR) and i don't know if DTR must be connected to do uartsb work well


CoreyK
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
It depends which you purchase. But usually they do. Be sure you are selecting the correct board when you upload. In the menu, Under "Tools" --> "Boards" select which you have, usually the "Arduino Duemilanove, or Nano w/ ATmega 328" option. Also, if you have an actual Arduino, you can just pop the chip out of that, load your sketch on the new chip and then switch them again. Hope this helps you!


javierg
Monday, November 14, 2011
hi (excuse my english) can i know if the atmega have the bootloader? i make the board but i can't upload a sketch, what i'm doing wrong? thanks


CoreyK
Friday, August 12, 2011
@Eddie - My response to Eric Matthews is right asbove his post. You have to make sure you save the file... Not sure why its not working for you. If you right click and select \"Save Target as\", it should work. If you just click the link and open it in your browser, it will not prink correctly. Hope this helps.


fooooo
Friday, August 12, 2011
foooooooooooo


CoreyK
Friday, August 12, 2011
@Eddie - My response to Eric Matthews is right asbove his post. You have to make sure you save the file... Not sure why its not working for you. If you right click and select "Save Target as", it should work. If you just click the link and open it in your browser, it will not prink correctly. Hope this helps.


Eddie
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Please answer the question about printout size. I print this pattern file after downloading and it doesn't fit page. What size should the final printout be? Eric Matthews asked same thing Monday, May 16, 2011 without response. Thanks Eddie


CoreyK
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
@MoB - Thanks for pointing that out! Yeah, I mirrored my first one as well. Glad you got one put together and assembled and its working.


MoB
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
For everyone who wants to use the layout of Jens Beck, BE CAREFUL: The layout itself is already mirrored, though the text isnt! This means that if you mirror it again for printout, you will end up with a wrong curcuit! Think of it like you are looking from the top (where the electronics are) through the board. When you directly print the layout it will work but the type will be mirrored. Otherwise the type will be ok but the Atmega wont fit! I really like your design Jens, but because I was so excited I didnt recognize this point. I mirrored the file, etched the board and assambled it, just to find out that all connections are wrong (fliped). Pretty silly not to think about it before I started making it, so it was my fault :) I am now considering to bend the legs of my Atmega to make it fit, though I know its not a good idea... But anyhow, when you print it the right way, I think your curcuit should work properly. @Corey: Thank you very much for this tutorial, its just great! It all works really well and I was able to make a neat PCB (besides the problems discribed above :)) in my first attempt.


CoreyK
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
@Eric Matthews: Did you save the file and then print it? If you just print from the web browser, it won't come out right. You have to actually download the file and print it. Right click and select "save target as" Hope this helps. ~ Corey


Eric Matthews
Monday, May 16, 2011
Corey, Thanks for a wonderful and inspiring tutorial. However, I am having trouble printing the pattern to size. It comes out the wrong size on my HP laserjet 1012. I have been able to approximate the size by choosing landscape mode and then telling the printer driver to pring at 128%, but I'm just approximating. Is there a way to ensure the correct size? I'm printing from IE8. Please tell me there's a better way to print this. Again, You've done a beautiful job on this. Eric Matthews


Sergio Montini
Thursday, May 12, 2011
Amazing! I'm going to follow this tutorial step-by-step and build my own Arduino. Thanks for sharing with the community!


CoreyK
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
@Mike Herbst - Check the LED. In your picture, the top row is (-) the middle is (+) and the bottom one connects to the chip. Based on how the resistor looks, you might have it set up wrong. The long leg (with resistor) should go into the bottom row, and the short leg shoud go to the top row. Also, if ANY of the solder from the atmega chip's pins touch, it will not work. it's of course ok for (-) to touch (-) and (+) to touch (+). But if the actual pins cross anything, it won't work. The power light will come on, as in your pic, but thats all you'll get. Hope this helps. Let me know. It took me a bunch of attempts before I got my first board to work. Don't get discouraged! Its awesome when it works!


Mike Herbst
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Hi, thanks for teh tutorial. I did it, but i can get it to work - i have no idea why it does not work. I gave a aduino bootloader with my programmer on my Arduiono board (2009) and programmed the blink program - works perfect on Arduino board. Then i put the Atmel to the DIYdurino board - but noting happend :-( I have checked connection but no shortens and the pinheader are connected in a right way to the corresponding µC pin. the Voltage Regulator works perfekt 5,02V i have no clue whar should i check thanks for your help DIY DURINO


Cory
Monday, May 2, 2011
totally agree with you. My blog: le credit ou Rachat de Credit sygma


CoreyK
Monday, March 28, 2011
@Jens Bek: Thanks for the pattern. It looks like the component placement should be easy to figure out. Though maybe you could post another photo for others and show how you'd set it up. I'll have to give it a try and see how it works. I also created one without the wires. Working on making a RBB board too. Glad you liked the tutorial! ~ Corey Kingsbury


Jens Bek
Sunday, March 27, 2011
I can see that the system cuts out html-code, so the links to the dosn't exist, but here they are: http://jbek.dk/atmega328/pattern.rev.printout.jpg http://jbek.dk/atmega328/singleprint.jpg


Jens Bek
Sunday, March 27, 2011
A very very usefull tutorial,- thank You!! The only tiny litle thing I disliked, was the jumperwires on the PCB. So I desighted to tuch up the layout a bit. Also the issue brougth up by Tiago about conecting the CA-42 cable, was on my mind. Acording to the site mentioned, the conection should go like this: Gnd N/C Vcc TX RX RST I ended up with this design: On the componentside, the Power-On LED are moved to the SW-corner, along with it's resistor. The Reset-button are moved to the edge and it's resitor located just North of the 328's cassing. The two copperlanes on W-side has changced polarity. The board keeps the same messures. I don't have the ability to try out the design at the moment, so please get back to me, if you try it out. It costed me a sixpack of beer to figure this redesign out, and now I will go nurse my hangovers! :-) Related files: Single board printout Full side printout I realy hope you can use the design - Best reguards Jensi


theDane
Thursday, March 17, 2011
This is awesome. Thank you very much for putting the time into showing how to do this. Could you make a board that uses a 16mHz crystal resonator? I think it's better, because the ceramic caps are inside. Just a thought, but overall this is an EXTREMELY useful tutorial.


CoreyK
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
I'll email it to you. Do me a favor though, and send me the changes you make, I'd like to see what you do. Especially if you add a motor driver!


Tiago Mitsuo
Monday, March 14, 2011
@CoreyK -- So, I'd like to get the source file, ie "file.123", not the program. I would like to change the layout of your board. Thank you and sorry for the inconvenience.


CoreyK
Monday, March 14, 2011
@Tiago -- here is the link: http://www.sunstone.com/pcb-resources/downloads/ThankYou.aspx?ID=14If you do a search for the program "PCB123" you'll find it.


Tiago Mitsuo
Monday, March 14, 2011
@CoreyK -- Your board is very good and cheap. At ebay, the cable is very cheap. I think that a motor drive would be very practice. I thought about it for using in mini sumo robot. I haven't found the PCB source file.


CoreyK
Monday, March 14, 2011
@Tiago -- I have seen that, and I want to try to build one. The program I used to design the PCB is called PCB123, there is a link to it in the Resources part of the page. Hmmmm L293? A motor driver? Interesting. It could be done, but I would redesign the board to fit it better.


Tiago Mitsuo
Sunday, March 13, 2011
@CoreyK, I would make the project cheaper, so I asked the serial connection. Had you seen this? http://www.kwartzlab.ca/2010/04/reverse-engineering-cheap-ardu/ What program you designed the PCB? Could you send me the source file? I would include a L293D in your PCB. Thank you!


CoreyK
Saturday, March 12, 2011
@Tiago -- I'm not sure if you can connect that. I've only used the FT232 as shown in the tutorial. Many of the other cables require you to use the reset pin, which isn't accessible on my design -- cause it isnt needed by the FT232. You may be able to drill through to the reset pin, (top left) and drill it before the path to the button. But I'm not sure, I've never done this. I hope this helps you!


Tiago Mitsuo
Friday, March 11, 2011
Excellent work! I have a question, can I connect the serial cable (RS232) directly on this board? For example, could I soldering a DB9 female connector in this board? Thank you very much!


CoreyK
Friday, March 11, 2011
@Bruce Allen -- pretty much, yeah. Though I have had some get disolved when I mixed the acid too strong. It seems the regular/thicker Sharpies are better for direct etching, and the smaller Sharpies are good for just touching up the toner.


Bruce Allen
Friday, March 11, 2011
So, does this mean a Sharpie can be used directly for a "resist" pen? So I can just draw some quickey PCB artwork if I don't mind how primitive it will look?


Leif Nygaard Eilertsen
Friday, March 11, 2011
I love what you have put together. I am looking into Arduino as part of my hexacopter project and your tutorial made me realize what can be done using prototyping.


IuriiO
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Amazing! Thanks for this, I've been looking for it for a long time :)


FrankRizzo
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
yes, awesome!


Bean_or_beaR
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Dude, this is totally awesome. I've been looking for a place that had all of this on one page. I'm soooooo making one of these. thank you thank you!


CoreyK
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
@ZikZak - here is how to burn the bootloader: http://arduino.cc/en/Hacking/Bootloader?from=Main.Bootloader I usually just buy them with the bootloader on it, so I've never tried it... hope this helps.


ZikZak
Monday, March 7, 2011
GREAT ! Could you write a How-To about a DIY to install the bootloader on an empty atmega ?


Paul
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Thanks!


Jojo
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
cool!


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